All Cook Must Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on List of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known high-end names. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble place achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.

Daniel Green
Daniel Green

Lena Visser is a seasoned sports bettor and analyst with over a decade of experience in the gambling industry.